Why do the waves wash ashore? (Article)

Why do the waves hit the shore even when the wind is blowing from the shore? - in this interesting article you will learn everything that is connected with sea waves and, first of all, we will figure out what a wave is.

A wave is a periodic change in the level of water in space and time. Many factors can cause a wave to appear, for example, ebb and flow, wind, the rotation of the Earth, etc. Depending on what caused the wave, its speed and length will change. ... It is also worth considering that with a greater depth of the reservoir, the length and speed of the waves will be greater.

Waves propagate on the surface and, if the reservoir is very deep, then the waves do not reach the bottom. The speed of the wave approaching the shore decreases significantly, as the depth of the reservoir gradually decreases. As you approach the shore, the waves begin to go in parallel.

It is quite logical that if the source of wave propagation is not near the coast, then the waves tend to the latter. But this interesting article will tell you the opposite as well. With a strong wind on a coast with a steep slope, a situation may arise that only ripples will be noticeable near the coast, while when moving away from the coast, the waves will increase and move in the opposite direction from it.

For the most part, the depth of the reservoir decreases when approaching the shore, and since due to friction the speed of the water at the bottom decreases, in order to raise its level, the water moves only along the surface. Further in this interesting article, you will find out what happens to the water near the coast.

Water circulation begins near the coast - a layer of water on the surface forms an inflow, while the outflow occurs along the bottom. The direction of the wind does not play any role here. If there is no wind, then you can see how the crest of the wave moves towards the shore.